The starting point is quite simple for many of these new brands: “Why travel the whole world searching for exotic ingredients, while extraordinary, often untapped raw materials can be found right here?”
Giving more value to local biodiversity
“I grew up with an orchard at the back of my garden, and nothing tastes better than fruit directly taken from the tree. Apples, especially the cider apple from Normandy, are extremely rich in polyphenols. France happens to be one of the main producers, with the most varied offer,” explains Fanny Marouani, founder of Pomarium, an organic line which makes use of all properties in the apple.
“France is full of resources,” declares Julie Ducret, who founded Pulpe de Vie, an organic brand from Provence based on fresh fruit, which is already cherished by Japanese women. “For ethics reasons as well as to limit carbon footprint, I forced myself to define a maximum area of 350 km around the site to source my products”, she explains. This uncompromising philosophy concerns fresh fruit and all other ingredients alike: olive oil, bee wax, honey, floral waters, ochre from the Luberon…
Given the growing interest of brands in local sourcing, ID Bio, a plant extraction laboratory, launched a brand named Terroir en beauté in 2012 to give more value to organic-certified raw materials from French regions: samphires from Western France marshes, highbush blueberry from the Vosges, carrots from the Alsatian region, dark red plums from Lorraine… The range already counts 18 references, and 6 are being developed. “Whether small or bigger, brands are now ready to commit in a specific regional origin, and we are able to provide this. We have quite a high demand for our standard range as well as for our tailor-made extracts,” affirms Alexia Machado Forestier, Marketing and Communication Manager.
Shared economic dynamics
Apart from exploiting regional botanical richness, brands can also rely on the image of highly evocative regions. This is how Stéphanie Seznec founded Britanie, as she was willing to put forward the Breton lifestyle, all the while supporting local development. “This encourages our region to work on its own resources, which is not always automatic in the cosmetic industry,” explains Arnaud Fourel, founder of Nominoe, a brand of cosmetics developed thanks to the richness of Brittany’s biotope. Such an ethical approach does not always prove economical though: “packaging made in Brittany is much more expensive for us”, admits Stéphanie Seznec, “but we do intend to give priority to quality”.
With about fifteen local partners on average, these brands prefer to favour a close relationship with their suppliers, whether they provide raw materials, packs or formulators. Such a relationship is often perceived as a guarantee of quality and product traceability. Julie Ducret went as far as printing pictures of her 25 fruit producers on Pulpe de Vie product packages, just to follow this principle. “Speaking the truth is only logical”, she believes.
Corsican brand Solyvia partially finances the production of some plants, thus securing its own share of the harvest. “If you want to use the image of a region, it is only natural to invest in this region”, explains Christophe Fouilleron, one of its founders. And he laments the fact that he does not share this investment with big brands. “Corsica and its biodiversity are on a roll with major groups, which unfortunately take advantage of this without creating jobs on a local level.” He got together with eight other Corsican brands, and in 2012 he joined Corsica Cosmetica, the first cosmetic group on the island, which was founded by the Chambre des Métiers et de l’Artisanat de Corse du Sud - South Corsica’s chamber of handicrafts - to preserve and give more value to its beauty asset. “We have implemented a charter of good practices to protect rare plants such as the everlasting flower or the myrtle against any abusive exploitation, and to impose quotas”.
From local to global
These regional products are riding on the wave of the need for authenticity, local commitment and closeness of consumers who seek to give a meaning to their act of purchase. They also possess a considerable emotional power, playing alternatively on the feeling of belonging and the need to escape. Local sourcing is viewed as an act of solidarity, and a guarantee of quality. And when the region, such as Provence, enjoys strong tourist attraction and a significant popular support beyond borders, it can also become an important asset abroad. “Reactions are extremely positive in Asia, as the Japanese are great admirers of Napoleon. They know Corsica, they appreciate its naturalness, and it is increasingly part of their travel destinations,” declares Christophe Fouilleron. The local made in mark is popular abroad.
