According to Seppic, the make-up market is in the midst of a revolution, the buzzword of which is “skincarization”, a trend where the logic of skincare extends to new categories. As a result: consumers now expect makeup products that take special care of their skin.

Sensorial textures

The influence of skincare on make-up not only reflects in the use of skincare active ingredients in formulas, but also in the creation of innovative textures.

“To create sensorial textures, inspired by skin care (O/W foundation, cream gel, ...) involving external water phases, formulators need Hydrophilic Coated Pigments to optimize foundation coverage and achieve good make-up performance,” says the company in statement.

Polymer compatibility

Therefore, Seppic has challenged its polymers and emulsifiers to obtain compatibility data with hydrophilic pigments in powder form and in dispersed liquid form. “The results will help formulators to choose the suitable products and build nice textures with this kind of pigment,” deems the subsidiary of the Air Liquide group.

Among the polymers that were tested, Sepimax Zen (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) has proven to be the best performing polymer, while Solagum AX (Acacia Senegal Gum and Xanthan Gum), emerged as the best natural polymer.

According to Seppic, various other polymers give good performance results too, such as Sepinov EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer), Sepiplus S (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer and Polyisobutene and PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Cononut Ether), Sepiplus 400 (Polyacrylate-13 and Polyisobutene and Polysorbate 20) & Simulgel NS (Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium AcryloyldimethylTaurate Copolymer and Squalane and Polysorbate 60).

A wide range of viscosities

Of course, it is possible to adjust the percentage of polymers and emulsifiers for a wide range of viscosities.

For emulsifiers, several ingredients are performing depending on the requested sensoriality: Sensanov WR (C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate and C20-22 Alcohols), Montanov 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside), Fluidifeel Easy (Lauryl Glucoside and Myristyl Glucoside and Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate) ...

Thus, Seppic can offer solutions ranging from comfortable to high natural foundations, from thick to fluid textures.

No-transfer and high coverage

As consumers are increasingly looking for no-transfer and high coverage efficacy, Seppic has done some measurement in emulsion chassis.

“Our simple formulas are non-transfert like a W/Si market benchmark and obtained better results than a water based foundation benchmark,” claims the company.